Todos Santos once a thriving sugar cane manufacturing town


Machinery from a now-defunct sugar cane mill in Todos Santos, Mexico. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

Anyone who has been to Todos Santo will tell you there is something sweet about this pueblo in Baja California Sur. Maybe it has to do with its roots being in the sugar cane business.

In the late 1800s until the 1950s this town was the sugar cane capital of all of Baja. The last mill closed in 1965 or 1974, depends on whose history one believes. Much of the brown sugar was shipped to mainland Mexico. Several mills were scattered about town, with remnants of some still visible.

If it weren’t for a drought, this industry might still be thriving. The aquifer dried up in the early 1950s, causing the sugar cane plantations to wither. Sugar cane is considered a water-thirsty crop; after all, it is classified as a grass. For reasons no one is quite sure about the water table came back to life in 1981 and has remained viable. While many crops are planted in the area today, the sugar business has never been resurrected.

The El Molino chimney is the most intact one left in Todos Santos. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

The exact number of sugar cane mills, or molinos, varies depending what one reads. Information given out during the Historic Home Tour of Todos Santos earlier this year says there were five. They were:

  • San Pablo: This site had the first steam motor mill which belonged to the Markerou brothers, on the property of Enrique Max Estrada, now known at La Cachora.
  • El Rinconceto: Owned by Don Jesus Amador.
  • El Cerro Verde: Owned by the Dominguez family.
  • El Central: Located in front on the hospital on Calle Juarez; owned by Jose and Manuel Santana Villarino. They brought the first iron-cane crushing mill to Todos Santos. It came from San Francisco via Cabo San Lucas. A boutique hotel is being built on this land, which is incorporating remnants of the mill into the design.
  • El Molino: It was owned by Don Abraham Salgado Villalobos. It reportedly closed in 1974.

One of the best places to see some of the local sugar cane history is at the old El Progresso site, which today is known as El Molino. The remains are on land used as a small hotel and for residents in a neighborhood that used to be a trailer park.

Vats once used in the process to turn cane into sugar. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

A brick chimney from the mill is at least 40 feet tall. It looks in good enough shape that it could be used today. Five vats are rusted, with weeds growing in them. They sit idle, seemingly resting where they were left on the final day they were used.

The El Molino site is part of the biennial Historic Home tour. Docents share information about the history of Todos Santos’ sugar cane heyday, how the cane was turned into sugar, and then shipped from the old port to mainland Mexico.

Sugar cane was brought to the mills in 1 meter increments in a cart. The shoots were sent through a press to squeeze out the juice. That juice was then steamed or smoked to make the brown sugar. Fires were built with debris from the cane. The chimney sucked heat through the vats. The process was much more complex than this.

In the vats that still exist are wooded slabs with holes in them about the size of an egg. They would be filled with sugar and shipped in that manner. Some of these traditional brown sugar cones are still available in area stores.

Book Review: Baja cookbook more than recipes

Cookbooks aren’t just for learning new recipes. They can be picture books, history books and so much more. Such is the case with “Not Food for Old Men: A Mexican Culinary Adventure” (Sime Books, 2015).

While it has expected chapters like Salad, Soups, and Tacos; Seafood; and Desserts and Cocktails, there are also sections about whale watching, all of the chefs who contributed to the book and more. The book includes how singer Jim Morrison was a regular visitor to Ensenada. I now know the Caesar salad was first created by chef Livo Santini at the Hotel Cesar in Tijuana.

The disappointing section was on the Hotel California in Todos Santos. It says the Eagles song by the same name is about this lodging establishment. That is completely wrong. The Eagles sued the Todos Santos hotel for trademark infringement. The lawsuit was settled in 2018. Hopefully, future editions of the cookbook will set the record straight.

The cookbook was part of a package I “won” as the high bidder at the Gastrovino event a year ago this month. While there are not a ton of recipes I would use because of being a vegetarian, I’m still not sure I’m ready to pass the book on. Often I can substitute meat/fish for something else like tofu or a portabella mushroom. Mexican spices, sauces and all those peppers are delicious. Plus, there are a few drinks I’d like to try like the Kiwi-Jalapeno Margarita.

While I didn’t read every recipe, all are in Spanish and English. Most of the translations are good, and when they weren’t, I could figure it out. For instance, one place it says to strain things in cilantro when it should have been a colander.

The photographs are outstanding. More have to do with scenes in Baja than the food. All are inspirational to get one cooking cuisine from Mexico.

Mexico once the standard-Bearer for pure vanilla

Considering so many recipes only call for a teaspoon of vanilla, is it really that important which extract one uses? The answer, like so many things, all depends upon who you ask.

Pure vanilla is definitely better than imitation. But what about the country it came from?

Mexican vanilla was once in high demand. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

My Todos Santos friend Susan said, “I don’t use the vanilla from here. I use Kirkland which I think is very good.”

My Arizona friend Penny said, “I love Mexican vanilla. It seems a little stronger and maybe even a tad sweeter, if vanilla can ever be considered sweet. I think it has a wonderful smell and flavor. It’s not hugely different, but different enough that I prefer it to the vanilla I buy here.”

“It used to be that is was more pure and thus stronger and more flavorful. Check the ingredients and if there aren’t additives, it is great stuff,” my friend Jill said of Mexican vanilla.

It’s important to read the label to know if it’s pure vanilla or imitation. Finding authentic Mexican vanilla extract can be difficult because Mexico doesn’t have strict labeling laws. The beans might not even be from Mexico and additives are possible.

Vanilla was first discovered in Mexico. Today, according to reports, in terms of tons of vanilla produced it is No. 4 in the world behind Madagascar, Indonesia and China. It was used as a perfume of sorts before it began being added to drinks for flavoring.

“Grown from an orchid, vanilla beans are one of the world’s most difficult crops to cultivate. After harvest, the beans require an arduous and tricky nine-month process of sun drying to cure properly. Vanilla simply does not lend itself to mechanization or other methods of mass production,” according to CooksVanilla.com. “From start to finish, vanilla beans are produced by hand. This method is feasible only in poor countries where wages are low.”

Because of the process to bring pure vanilla extract to market it is pricey no matter what country makes it. It has been called the most labor-intensive crop in the world. The sad irony is locals in the country where vanilla extract is produced often cannot afford to buy it. That is why artificial extract is on the shelves.

Today, the United States is the largest consumer of vanilla, followed by Europe.

What passes for orange juice in Mexico is more like Tang

Even though the United States and Mexico are two of the largest citrus producing countries, what passes for commercial orange juice is strikingly different.

True, nothing beats fresh squeezed, but I’m too lazy to make it. There was a time when I drank OJ every day. Now I know better. Still, sometimes I want juice out of a container, even if it is mostly sugar water and not good for me. Even the not-from-concentrate orange juice falls into the unhealthy category.

Jumex is the main brand of juice in stores in Todos Santos. This Mexican company was founded in 1961. It has been importing juices to the United States since 1982.

What surprised me more than it coming in a box is that it was not refrigerated. Jumex mostly produces what it calls nectars. Nectar is fruit juice and pureed fruit. It might have pulp. The orange nectar from Jumex is pale in comparison to most U.S. orange juice brands, more like Tang. The taste is more Tang-like than orange juice, too.

For me, it acts as a thirst quencher – something to drink besides my usual water or Coke Light. Plus, it works fine for smoothies.

I can get U.S. orange juice in Mexico, but I have to travel for it. Costco in Cabo San Lucas sells Florida’s Natural orange juice (2.63 liters) for about $6. This is a bit spendy since it is imported. When I treated myself to it I discovered it wasn’t that special. I’ll stick with the Jumex orange nectar (1.89 liters) for about $2 when I have a craving.

Leave work behind, head to The Office on the beach

The Office’s “doctor” is ready to cure whatever ails you. (Image: Susan Wood)

Where do people often conduct business. At an office, right? In Baja people do the same thing. Only difference is sand, margaritas and the Sea Cortez are involved.

In this day of working remotely or needing to be connected to the boss or clients 24/7, people wouldn’t be lying if they answered a call, text or email and said they were at The Office. Business just might not be what they are conducting. The Office is actually a restaurant on the famous Médano Beach in Cabo San Lucas.

Its humble beginnings date to the 1970s when this area wasn’t much more than a fishing village. The big hotel/condo projects were still to come. Cabo wasn’t a destination for the masses; it was authentic Mexico in every direction.

The Office is open for business seven days a week. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

A palapa (thatch roof made of palm fronds) was erected and a tiny kitchen built. Tacos and other Mexican fare were on the menu. Soon some water toys were available for rent. It was loosely known at The Office, a name that stuck and is now part of the local lore.

It’s open from 7am to 10pm seven days a week. It’s not uncommon for alcohol to be on the table at an early hour – and not just mimosas or bloody Marys. Dr. Hang Over walks around with a stethoscope, lab coat and notepad. He writes prescriptions for hangovers and who knows what else. A “shot” of something is always in order. Medicine is not administered in the form of a syringe, but instead in a shot glass.

The vegetarian omelet is filling. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

Today The Office is much more than a makeshift eatery. It now shares Médano Beach with a slew of restaurants. The Sea of Cortez is just steps away. The scenery – natural and people watching – is wonderful. The hawkers selling their wares must stay a certain distance away, which is nice to be able to eat without that disturbance.

While it’s touristy, the food is good and there are options for vegetarians.

Array of choices to solve medical ailments in Mexico


Tea from three Mexican plants can bring stomach relief. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

Long before big pharma came into existence people used the land to cure what ailed them. They still are. I tried it earlier this month.

The main ingredient in my homebrewed tea was a handful of leaves from the nicle plant. Having never heard of the plant didn’t alarm me. I was tired of an ongoing intestinal issue that started with a night in the bathroom, and then kept zapping my energy, and left me with a wonky appetite.

I’m blaming my friend Marilyn for passing her stomach virus along to me via contaminated tennis balls. (Nothing scientific about that diagnosis.) She chose big pharma to cure her. I started with whining and sleep (no relief), then tried papaya seeds per my a friend’s recommendation (that worked in the moment, but wasn’t long lasting), then went to 7-Up (always settles my stomach, but then I could tell I had had too much, which caused more stomach discomfort), then Jill started plucking things from her property. It was time to go all in.

She got the recipe from her housekeeper, Laura. Jill had also heard about nicle being a medicinal plant from other local women.

“Laura gave us a cutting that she rooted so that we would have the plant. It is actually a large bush that evidently has a lovely flower,” Jill said.

According to the Journal of Ethnopharmacology, the nicle plant is good for diarrhea and stomach ache, kidney ache, fever and constipation. The plant is listed under the section: Traditional Medicine of Baja California Sur.

The journal says, “We have now registered 252 local names of traditional medicinal resources in this area. One hundred twenty medicinal plants have been collected. From these 120 species, 80 have been botanically identified and 49 are reported here.”

The Center for Biological Diversity in a paper titled “Medicinal Plants At Risk” states, “In the United States, of the top 150 prescription drugs, at least 118 are based on natural sources.” The problem is a tiny percentage of tropical plants have been screened to know their medicinal applications, and those that have risk being overharvested.

Jill supplied the necessary leaves, while I stopped at the market on my way home to get an avocado and cinnamon stick. I’m not sure if the cinnamon is there for medicinal purposes or flavor, since it alone has health benefits. The tea tasted great. However, I am grateful for the warning that the liquid medicine would be a magenta color.

I was also warned I could feel flush, even start to sweat and that drinking it could make me feel a little high. I got warm, but nothing alarming. Then I felt a little off and extremely tired. I was in bed at 8pm and asleep moments later. The best part is the relief was almost instantaneous.

The problem is that I got cocky thinking I could immediately eat regular again. Wrong. My body let me know the bug wasn’t gone. Another night of feeling like I was prepping for a colonoscopy. While I ended up on antibiotics to kill the germs, at least I was in Mexico. No doctor’s visit required. I just walked into the pharmacy to get what I needed. It also helps to have a sister who is a nurse practitioner to tell me how much to take and how often.

Jill collects nicle leaves. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

Tea Recipe

1 handful nicle leaves

½ handful quaba leaves

3 small mango leaves

1 avocado pit

1 cinnamon stick

2 cups water

Bring the above to a light boil and drink.

Disappointed in San Jose del Cabo’s Flora Farms

Flora Farms grows the produce used at the restaurant and sold at the store. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

If it had not been located on a dirt road, I’m not sure I would have believed I was in Mexico anymore. That’s what going to Flora Farms is like. I might as well have been in the United States based on the prices and concept.

This 56-acre organic farm in San Jose del Cabo provides food for the restaurant and market on-site, as well as for the homeowners. The grounds are stunning, with bananas dangling off trees in bunches, nopales cacti growing in a line like the other row crops, and herbs ready to be plucked by a sous chef. Guided tours of the garden are available.

Creative cocktails are available at the bar. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

While I enthusiastically embrace the farm-to-table concept, the feel of Flora Farms was a bit off putting, even though in some ways it is impressive. It felt a bit like a tourist trap. Like a place only visited by white people. Other than workers, only white people were there. This isn’t to say Mexicans with money don’t go there. Money, though, is definitely what you need. The fact everything was in English was telling.

Flora Farms offers cooking classes for the public. This week people could have paid $115 to learn how to prepare roasted vegetable tacos. This included lunch and a cocktail. As a vegetarian, let me tell you this would be a rip off.

The Farmarita is their version of a margarita. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

A cocktail is all I’ve had at Flora Farms. While my Farmarita was unique (it’s made with heirloom carrot juice), it wasn’t worth $15 (U.S.).

What I didn’t know until going to Flora Farms in January is that people live there. This is from Flora Farm’s website, “The limited remaining inventory is for sale, however is [stet] available only to those who receive a private invitation.” It’s that exclusive. Residents at least have a private pool.

Nopal in the garden at Flora Farms. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

It doesn’t cost money to walk through the grounds, check out the restaurant, bar and little store. It’s a bit of a drive, though. A few stores are in the compound – selling soaps, clothing and other goods. There is also a spa.

Even though I didn’t eat there, I’m still wondering what all the hype is about. I had Airbnb guests rave about Flora Farms, even leaving behind some of the granola and mango jam for me. The granola tasted like any I’ve had from a grocery store and the jam wasn’t as good as what my friend, Jill, makes.

Priceless views, expensive drinks at The Rooftop

The sunset from The Rooftop in Cabo San Lucas is stunning. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

Sometimes you have to splurge. That’s what going to The Rooftop in Cabo San Lucas was all about. Oh, and the view.

It’s the iconic arch that Cabo is known for that is the big draw. The rugged rocks protrude from the coast like a border of sorts. Which they are. At the point is where the Sea of Cortez and Pacific Ocean meet. It’s magical to watch the sunset from here as that big globe settles behind the mountains of rocks. Soon the lights of Cabo begin to twinkle and the whole area looks more like a little city than a beach oasis.

The outside bar overlooks the Sea of Cortez, which at times can look more like the Pacific at this location. Waves were big enough people were surfing below.

In 2018, Condé Nast Traveler named The Rooftop one of the 10 best rooftop bars in the world. It sits on the sixth floor, which is the top floor, of The Cape hotel. The hotel opened in summer 2015.

The Sixth Floor is one of several specialty cocktails on the drink menu. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

The vibe is young and hip; we definitely were in the minority that night with our group of six ranging in age from 50s to 80s. It didn’t stop us from enjoying the people watching as well as the natural scenery.

A disc jockey was spinning tunes at a level that allowed for conversations. Mixologists were working their magic in a circular bar about a third of the way in from the front entrance. Walking in there is a Champagne station with multiple choices; all served by the glass.

Various seating areas line the perimeter, with Plexiglas in place to not obstruct the expansive views. Farther back are cushy seats that open to the hills behind town. It’s designed so nearly everyone has a view.

The bill came to $133 for six cocktails and four bottles of water. Specialty cocktails come with a price like one would find in the U.S., ranging from $13 to $17. Even so, based on flavor I can recommend the Sixth Floor ($16) – whiskey, yuzu, lemon, mint and raspberry syrup.

Reservations are encouraged if you want to eat or be guaranteed a table. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

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Deets:

Corn snack found on streets of Mexico a decadent treat

Several scoops of corn go onto the tortilla chips. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

Street food in most countries is an experience in culinary art not found in a restaurant. It can be better, more authentic.

One of my favorites in Mexico is esquites. It’s like nachos in a bag, with corn being the dominate ingredient. The name comes from the Aztec word ízquitl meaning toasted corn. It would have been served in a cup or vessel of some sort before packaged foods came along. Today it could easily be made in homes with totopos – tortilla chips — of any kind. Without the chips, it could be a salad of sorts.

A small stand selling esquites is open year-round on the south side of Todos Santos. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

My niece, Veronica, introduced me and my mom to this treat in Todos Santos. While most people would have this as a snack, it’s been a meal for me since then. That night the three of us shared one.

I watched as the bag of Tostitos was slit open along the side to make a pouch. Veronica adeptly communicated in Spanish what ingredients to put on. Corn kernels cooking in a large vat of water were scooped out and spread over the chips. I don’t know what all was piled on except crema, which is like sour cream, hot sauce and Cotija cheese. Lime juice, mayonnaise and chile powder are other common ingredients.

The combination is decadent, delightful and definitely not healthy.

Esquites with toppings including jicama and peanuts in Tlaquepaque. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

Veronica likes to squeeze the bag so the chips break into pieces. This is easier for eating; which is done with a fork or spoon. I wish the proprietors would crunch the chips before the ingredients are poured on; it can be tricky doing so with a full bag.

I would gladly have this more often, but the little cart in Todos Santos is only open at night. I’m too lazy to drive to the other side of town. Plus, it really is something that should be shared. I was excited during the Day of the Dead festivities last fall to see esquites being sold close to the town square. I converted Sue to being a fan of this treat.

When I was on the mainland last year there was a stand in Tlaquepaque selling esquites; something Rhoda and Liz had not had. Options for toppings were much greater there, which included beans and meat. We skipped the latter. With Rhoda well versed in the language, we knew what we were getting. By the time it was loaded up two hands were practically needed to hold it because it was so heavy. The three of us had no problem devouring it. We were sufficiently stuffed; making me wonder how I ever finish one on my own.

Mexico’s wine history older than the United States’

Bodegas de Santo Tomás is the oldest winery in Baja. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

While Mexico may not be the first country one thinks of for wine, it was the first country in North America to make wine.

Bodegas de Santo Tomás is the oldest winery in Baja California and the second oldest in Mexico. Because it is outside the main tourist corridor, it doesn’t get a lot of foot traffic. We were the only ones there as we passed through in October.

The tasting room, nestled between towering eucalyptus trees, is separate from the main winery, with visitors not allowed to go to the production facility which was built in the 1980s. It didn’t matter. We were content to sip on a variety of wines in the modern tasting room. And when we wanted to taste ones beyond the menu, the employee gladly obliged. This paid off, as we purchased a few not on the regular tasting menu – a white table wine, Cab and Barbera.

Remnants of a structure at the winery from earlier days. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

The tasting room employee said Barbera is a hard grape to work because of its acidity. This is just one of many Italian varietals that Baja is known for. Winemaker Laura Zamora is credited with upgrading the wines at Santo Tomás.

With a plethora of olive trees, much of that is turned into oil. Several may be sampled in the tasting room.

Santo Tomás is located in the original wine region of Baja known today as the Antigua Ruta del Vino. It consists of the Valle de Santo Tomás, Valle de la Grulla, and Valle de San Vicente. It is just south of the better known Valle de Guadalupe. Santo Tomás Valley, where the winery is located, is about 25 miles south of Ensenda and inland 10 miles from the Pacific Ocean. It’s at an elevation of approximately 750 feet.

A wall from an old rock structure that appears to still be crumbling is a reminder of the humble beginnings. The winery was founded in 1888 by Francisco Adonegui of Italy and Miguel Olmart of Spain. It was named after the mission in the area, Mission Santo Tomás de Aquino.

Plenty of wine to choose from at Santo Tomás. (Image: Kathryn Reed)

It has only had five owners, with the current one living in Ensenada, Mexico. It is now part of Baja United Wines, which includes Monte Xanic, Las Nubes, Relieve Vinicola, Vena Cava, and Valle Girl Vino.

Driving in, signs in Spanish and English disperse facts about the winery, such as:

  • Santo Tomás has 865 acres of vineyards distributed in three valleys – San Antonis de las Minas, San Vicente de Ferrer and Santo Tomás.
  • There are 21 varietals.
  • The olive grove has 45,000 trees encompassing 16 varietals.
  • Santo Tomas was the first winery in Mexico to have a female winemaker. With her at the helm, the winery has won more than 250 international medals.
  • Most of the material used to build the winery is recycled.

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